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Review: Chris Kimball Baking Illustrated promotion

:: The Fat Cat Skinny ::
Christopher Kimball, founder and editor of Cook's Illustrated, gave a lively and informative presentation to promote Baking Illustrated, the latest Best Recipe Classic.

Using personal anecdotes ranging from woodstoves to Julia Childs to Marion Cunningham, he included a behind-the-scenes video tour of the Cook's Illustrated kitchen, a Q&A session and an insightful chocolate tasting.

The Baking Illustrated tour will be hitting a number of cities over the next few weeks. For an unforgettable evening, stop by and meet Chris. Oh, and the best part: Baking Illustrated is another great cookbook... just like we've come to expect from the good folks at Cook's Illustrated.

(Note: I never pay full price for a cookbook... but this is the best $30 you'll ever spend: an informative presentation and a chance to meet Chris and have him autograph your cookbook).
:: :: :: ::

Close to 100 rabid Cook's Illustrated fans packed the 3rd floor event room of the Lincoln Center Barnes and Noble in New York City.

The thing that really struck me was the security: 2 dapper guards flanked each side of the room, and 1 was stationed securely in the back. Huh? I knew Chris was important, but...?

Anyway, before the presentation the staff passed out 3 small plastic cups of chocolate (properly sealed of course, in full compliance with NYC laws and regulations), and warned us not to eat it yet because it was part of Chris' tasting demonstration later in the evening.

Chris took the stage to wild applause, as always looking sharp -- and quite eccentric -- in his pink Polo Ralph Lauren oxford and his trademark bowtie (black).

He started off with a bit of background on Cook's Illustrated and America's Test Kitchen, then gave us a pop quiz about home cooking.

Next, Chris noted the primary reason why people do NOT cook today: fear of failure.

Sounds familiar. You've probably spent a Saturday afternoon planning a meal, slaving over the recipe line-by-line, only to have a cake collapse or bite into a pot roast with the taste and flavor of shoe leather... not a good feeling.

Hence, the mission of Cook's Illustrated magazine: simple recipes for us everyday cooks.

When testing a recipe, the Cook's Illustrated team researches 20-30 recipes, then choose 5 to actually try. Those 5 become a base from which the "best" recipe ultimately evolves.

Chris also cited some positive evidence that a renaissance is ahead for us home cooks.

1. More Men Are Cooking. When Chris founded Cook's Illustrated in 1979, 12% of subscribers were men. Today: 35%. (Coincidently, Paco Underhill mentioned this male cooking phenomenon as the reason we're starting to see more shiny, heavy-duty industrial appliances in the kitchen in his book "Why We Buy").

2. People Are Coming Home. Lately there has been a revival of home-bound activities and interests, and what better activity to do at home than cook?

Here are some other asides Chris shared:

  • You can tour the Cook's Illustrated facilities in Massachusetts. Yes, the set of America's Test Kitchen is the actual kitchen where all the cooking takes place, and about every 6 months they have open tours.

  • You can cook in the Cook's Illustrated kitchen too. Every now and then they bring Cook's Illustrated subscribers into the kitchen to test recipes (plus Chris and his team perform some clandestine analysis of us home cooks as we hack around in the kitchen).

  • Your oven is inaccurate. Chris had his chefs' test of their home ovens, and they found that oven temperatures are wildly inaccurate. One piece of advice: make small batches of cookies, because some of the cookies in a large batch will inevitably burn... it's just the fluctuating nature of your oven, NOT you and your technique.

  • Cook's Illustrated has a bench test where aspiring chef's put there skills to the test over 2 days. Chris doubts even he could pass it, and indeed a majority of the chef's wash out.

  • Someone asked if Cook's Illustrated was going to produce a healthy cooking cookbook, since most of the recipes are loaded with, well, fat (good stuff around here, we say). Chris noted that they believe in cooking stuff that actually tastes good, and it's difficult to cut out the butter and sugar and whatnot... but they probably will try to do it in the future. He also went on to say "heck, if you want to eat healthy eat fruit and vegetables", which we wholeheartedly agree with around here.

  • Chris raises and slaughters his own pigs, something he also mentioned in his "Kitchen Detective" cookbook. The first year his kids named the pigs, but learned the hard way this isn't such a good idea.

  • Lard makes pie dough taste really good. However, the lard we buy in U.S. supermarkets isn't very good, because it isn't typically the rendered fat from the kidneys of a pig.

    Overall, make sure when Chris visits your town you drop by. It's an entertaining and informative talk with a true cooking genius.

    Also, when you buy Baking Illustrated -- which we highly recommend -- there is a mistake on page 181: the 1 cup of butter should actually be 1/2 cup of butter. Ah, the small things in life...

    :: More Fat Stuff ::
    Two previous postings about Baking Illustrated:

    Reminder: Chris Kimball in NYC April 1st
    Christopher Kimball Speaking in NYC, Apr 1st

    dished out by fatcatchef on Apr 1, '04
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    Have you tried cooking with Rice Bran Oil??

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